Glossary

Knitting Terminology

This page is a working glossary of knitting terminology, skills.  Over the years, I’ve had to look up many myself when working patterns or learning new stitches, and to help save you the effort, I’ve started compiling them here.

This list is by no means a definitive or complete list.

I’m not promising that you’ll never have to go anywhere else for terms.  I am working on building a list of terms with easy to understand descriptions to help shorten the learning curve for other knitters.  If you see something on here that isn’t quite clear, or were looking for a term that isn’t here, please let me know!  We can work to build this list together!

Stitches:

Bobble Stitches – A cluster of stitches and rows worked in one place to form a bump, bobble, or bauble in your knitting.

Cable Knitting: There are many different types of cables, but they essentially boil down to moving a number of stitches around, to change the order in which they are knit.  The specific pattern will give instructions on how to achieve each type of cable.

Caliper Cable: A double cable using double yarn overs to create an elongated stitch that is cabled to the front of the work.

Dropped Stitch: Much like it sounds, this involves intentionally allowing a stitch to fall off of your needle.

Knit: the most basic or common stitch in knitting (hence the term “knitting”).

Knit Front and Back: Often abbreviated “KFB”. Knit one stitch multiple times (using the front side and the back side of the stitch).  This is a common form of increasing the number of stitches. Knit the stitch as normal, but don’t slip it off of the left hand needle. Bring your right hand needle around to the back and knit the stitch a second time, through the back of the stitch.

Knit Front, Slip Back: Similar to Knit front and back. Often abbreviated “KFSB”. Knit the stitch, bring your right hand needle around to the back, and instead of knitting it a second time, simply slip the stitch onto the right hand needle. This results in one increased stitch.

Knitting in the Round: A technique used to create hats, sweaters, socks, mittens and more.  Knitting in the same direction, casing a tubular result.

Knitting Together: Often abbreviated, K2Tog or K3Tog.  This is a form of decreasing stitches, in which you knit a number of stitches as if they were a single stitch.

Knit through the Back (KTBL): This is a simple variation of the knit stitch, where instead of inserting the needle through the front of the stitch, you insert the needle through the back of the next stitch, twisting the knit stitch for a desired effect.  I often use this for the brims or borders of hats and mittens.

Knitting Below: rather than knitting into the next stitch on the needle, you insert the needle into the first, second, third (etc.) stitch below a stitch on the left hand needle.  You can see how it’s used in this pattern.

LLI or Left Lifted Increase: Identify the last stitch on your right hand needle. Drop down two rows/rounds. Pick up the left side of this stitch and place it on your needle. Knit this stitch for a left leaning increase.

Left Twist: A single stitch cable that leans to the left.

Garter Stitch: The most basic stitch in knitting, comprised totally of knit stitches.

Mock Cables: a technique that gives you the look of a cable without actually knitting a cable.

M1 or Make One: A method of increasing the number of stitches.  If not specified, the most commonly the M1L is recommended.

M1R or Make One Right: This is worked between the last stitch worked, and the next stitch on the needle.  Insert your needle under the ‘bar’ or horizontal bit of yarn, from back to front.  Then knit this as if it were a ‘normal’ stitch.

M1L or Make One Left: This is worked between the last stitch worked, and the next stitch on the needle.  Insert your needle under the ‘bar’ or horizontal bit of yarn, from front to back.  Then knit through the back of this stitch.

Purl: often considered the opposite of the knit stitch and is often used to push the “bump” of the loop to the back of the work.  It is also used in combination with the purl knit stitch to achieve other knitting techniques and stitches.

Purling Together: Like knitting multiple stitches together, P2Tog or P3Tog, simply means to purl two or three stitches at the same time, as if they were one stitch.  This is often used in my cable hat patterns.

Right Twist: A single stitch cable that twists to the right.

RLI or Right Lifted Increase: identify the next stitch on your left hand needle. Go down one row/round. Pick up the right side of this stitch, and place it on your needle. Knit this stitch, and the stitch above it for a right leaning increase.

Stockinette: Typically the second stitched learned, this is comprised of knitting one row, and purling the next row (when knitting flat or back and forth).  This keeps the “bumps” of the loops on one side of the work.

Seed Stitch: made from a combination of knit and purl stitches, offset to form a textured pattern.

Twisted Knit Stitch: Made by knitting through the back of the stitch (Purling through the back on the wrong side if this technique is carried throughout the work).

Vikkel Braid: A horizontal cable that adds stunning detail to your work. YouTube Link Here.

WYIF/WYIB: With Yarn in Front/With Yarn in Back.  These are directions that tell you when to change the position of the working yarn in relation to your knitting.

Terms:

Cast On (CO): the method of adding stitches to your needles.  There are many different techniques for doing this that range from simple to much more decorative.

Blocking: After finishing your knitted project, is common to wash or soak the project and then lay it flat to dry.  Click the link for more information.

Finishing: Breaking the working strand of yarn, knotting or preventing the project from coming undone, and often weaving in the yarn tails.

Floats: When working with different colors, the extra yarn in between the color changes, held at the back of the work is called a float.

Frogging: The act of undoing stitches.  Click into the link for the derivation of the term and for an example.

Gauge: Often used in sizing for patterns, this is the number of stitches X the number of rows it takes to form a certain size and shape of knitting.  Often a 4X4 Square or swatch.   Unless specified otherwise, this will be knit in the pattern (if you are working cables, the cables will be included in the swatch so that you can edit a pattern or understand it’s fit/shape)

KAL or Knit Along: When a knitwear designer invites people to knit a project along with them.  I offer these as special ways for you to get my patterns free for a limited time.  In return, it helps me generate feedback and photos to share.

Right Side: This is typically used when there is a front/back to what you are knitting.  For simple garter stitch patterns or patterns where the work is reversible this may also be used just to denote the alternating rows.  Right side normally means the “front” of the work.

Sleeve Island: when you get bored or frustrated knitting a sleeve and are “stuck there” for a while. Often this is when a project get’s put in “time out” or is set aside until we’re inspired to work on it again.

Swatch: A sample or test knit often done to determine if the yarn and needles you have, plus your personal tension will result in the same size and shape of the pattern you are about to attempt.

Tension: How tight or loose your stitches are.  If you have a tighter tension than a pattern you are working, your knitted project will result in a smaller size.

Time Out: When a knitter sets aside a WIP for a while until they find renewed motivation to work on it again.

WIP: Work in Progress. A project which you are currently knitting. Knitters tend to a have a few of these going at one time.

Wrong Side: Used in conjunction with the “right side” or “front side” of a knitted item.  This is generally the “back” or “inside” of a knitted project – ie the side that would not be seen.  In patterns these terms are generally used to help you keep track of where you are in the pattern.

Tools:

Cable Needles: A shaped needle meant to help hold stitches securely while knitting cables.  Often stitches are held at the front or back of the work as other stitches are worked, leaving these “held” stitches in a sort of momentary limbo.  Cable needles help to make sure that these are held securely until they are to be worked.

Circular Needles: two short needles, often comprised of metal, plastic or wood, connected by a cable.  These are often referred to as “Fixed Circulars”

Interchangeable Circular Needles: Circular needles that can be changed to work with different needle sizes.  Often sold as a series of cables with needle sets.

Straight Needles: the “typical” needles when one sees or thinks of knitting.  These are different lengths of wood, plastic or metal, in various diameters.  These are pointed on one side, with a stopper or bauble on the opposite end to prevent stitches from falling off.

Darning or Tapestry Needles: Metal or plastic needles that look like large sewing needles.  These are used to sew or “weave” in the ends of yarn after you have finished a knitting project.

Double Pointed Needles: Straight knittings that are shaped into a point on both ends.  These are used for knitting in the round for small projects, and I also like to use these in place of cable needles.

Stitch Holders: Some projects call for a number of stitches to be held, or not worked for a length of time while another piece of the project is worked.  The Sleeves of a top down sweater for example are held on a “stitch holder” as you work to complete the body of the sweater.  Stitch holders can be plastic or wooden and often look like large safety pins.  However a spare bit of yarn works wonderfully too.  (I prefer the spare bit or “Waste” yarn as it is more flexible and makes the rest of the project easier to work with.

Stitch Markers: Certain patterns call for a change in the pattern, which needs to be marked.  Other patterns, worked in the round call for the beginning of a row to be marked.  Stitch markers are used in both these situations and come in a variety or types and sizes.  When just starting out, many use waste yarn knotted in a small loop which is easy to work with and inexpensive.  Other stitch markers can be lobster claw clasps with some beads, while others still are plastic or metal loops.  Many are decorative but all are functional and are chosen based on the knitter’s preference or type of pattern/project being works.